Petit utilitaire caution

Mécanisme à Manivelle Boîte Format: L x l x H -->  5 cm x 4 cm x 2 cm Tiny hand crank Musical Box Mechanical Movement ATTENTION !!! Pour Tout Achat à compter de 6,00 € ENVOI en SUIVI ou RECOMMANDE (+ prix emballage) SVP, Se Renseigner Avant d'ENCHERIR !! CAUTION !!! For Any Purchase From 6,00 € SENDING in FOLLOWED or REGISTERED LETTER (+ packing price) Please,contact me before Bidding !                      REDUISEZ LES FRAIS DE PORT                    EN GROUPANT VOS ACHATS                   GROUP YOUR PURCHASE                   TO REDUCE SHIPPING COST CONSEIL: Avant d'Enchérir, s'Informer sur les Frais de Livraison pour Achats Groupés. FOR THE FOREIGNERS: Please,contact me for the expenses of delivery in package. Vous obtenez ce que vous voyez. N'hésitez pas à poser vos questions avant de placer une enchère. Regardez mes autres objets pour économiser sur le port. You get what you see. Feel free to ask any question. Look at my other auctions and save on shipping. Livraison dès réception du règlement. J'envoie les PC dans une enveloppe à bulles.

Miniature métal 1:43 de Norev du petit utilitaire Fiat Fiorino en version tolé Cargo produit de 2007 à 2016 (c'est la modèle qui est identique au Citroen Nemo et Peugeot Bipper). Modèle NEUF en boite plexi et sur-carton sous film de protection réf.772200. Si envoi +4,50€ en relais-colis recommandé ou +6,50€ en colissimo normal à domicile. Nombreuses autres miniatures à vendre (+ de 5.000 différentes) collection personnelle, liste sur demande mail. Jeux / jouets à vendre à Guînes (62340)

French and English TRanslation Detail Voici une carte issue d'un projet de led OCD que l'on trouve à l'étranger. https://github.com/bitfieldlabs/afterglow Les caractéristiques sont les suivantes: - Réglage par logiciel PC fournis avec possibilité de sauvegarder des profiles de flipper pour partager sur les forums. - Possibilité de régler le temps d'allumage/extinction des leds. - Compatible avec des leds basiques. En effet, le gros intérêt d'une carte led OCD c'est que l'on peut monter des leds standards sur le flipper et obtenir quand même un beau rendu (pas de ghosting, pas d'effet strobo, simulation d'un effet filament). Pour résumer, si vous souhaitez convertir un flipper en leds, vous pouvez investir dans des leds de qualités ou monter un Afterglow avec des leds à petits prix. Les deux solutions auront un cout équivalent, avec l'avantage pour l'Afterglow de pouvoir remplacer des leds HS sans repasser à la caisse et de pouvoir également jouer sur les réglages de votre flipper. notre version est à base d'Arduino Mega Pro donc, que l’on à nommer: l'Afterglow Mega (Aganyte / Marcus) on a viré l'Arduino nano et les mux/demux au profit d'un Arduino Mega Pro qui peut travailler en parallèle. on a également supprimé tous les composants CMS pour du traversant ce qui à mon avis colle plus avec l'esprit flipper (ce n'est que notre avis). Enfin, on a ajouté les composants qui permettent de récupérer directement le 18v sur la matrice des lampes. Pour ce qui est du format, la carte est à peine plus grosse que l'Afterglow standard et elle peut toujours se loger derrière le DOT. Bien sur, la carte possède également toutes les fonctions de la version originale. Voici un exemple avec des leds achetées chez les chinois pour quelques centimes Vidéo dracula Aganyte Sans afterGlow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-kEwitmEZs Vidéo Dracula avec afterglow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lOaAa1UEj0     Pour ma part j’ai déjà des leds haut de gamme de chez pinball Life, mais le résultat est surtout intéressant pour l’effet filament qui rends le flipper beaucoup moins stroboscopique Vidéo Tom Sans afterglow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KA5ErohlLTk Video ToM Avec Afterglow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGSQqGpruTw   Selon le type de led il faudra aller modifier le Glow duration   avec le Soft, pour ma part j’ai du le baisser un petit peu, aganyte avec ses leds bas de gammeà laisser par defaut cela fonctionne très bien Une chose TRES IMPORTANTE, *** ATTENTION   *** LA MASSE DOIT ABSOLUEMENT ETRE BONNE ET BIEN RACCORDER, la moindre coupure engendre la perte partiel ou total des entrées de l’arduino ENGLISH TRANSLATION Here is a map from an OCD led project that can be found abroad. https://github.com/bitfieldlabs/afterglow The characteristics are as follows: - Adjustment by PC software supplied with the possibility of saving pinball profiles to share on the forums. - Possibility to adjust the time of switching on / off of the LEDs. - Compatible with basic leds. Indeed, the big interest of an OCD led card is that you can mount standard leds on the pinball machine and still get a nice rendering (no ghosting, no strobo effect, simulation of an effect. filament). To summarize, if you want to convert a pinball machine into leds, you can invest in quality leds or mount an Afterglow with leds at low prices. The two solutions will have an equivalent cost, with the advantage for the Afterglow of being able to replace HS leds without going back to the cash register and also being able to adjust your pinball machine's settings. our version is based on Arduino Mega Pro, therefore, to name it: the Afterglow Mega  (Aganyte / Marcus) we transferred the Arduino nano and the mux / demux in favor of an Arduino Mega Pro which can work in parallel. we have also removed all the SMD components for the traversing which in my opinion fits more with the flipper spirit (this is only our opinion). Finally, we added the components which make it possible to directly recover the 18v on the matrix of the lamps. As for the format, the card is only slightly bigger than the standard Afterglow and it can still fit behind the DOT. Of course, the card also has all the functions of the original version. Here is an example with leds bought from the Chinese for a few cents Video dracula  Without afterGlow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-kEwitmEZs Dracula video with afterglow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lOaAa1UEj0 For my part, I already have high-end leds from pinball Life, but the result is especially interesting for the filament effect which makes the pinball machine much less stroboscopic Tom Without afterglow video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KA5ErohlLTk Video ToM With Afterglow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGSQqGpruTw Depending on the type of led, you will have to go and modify the Glow duration with the Soft, for my part I had to lower it a little bit, aganyte with its low-end LEDs to leave by default it works very well One VERY IMPORTANT thing, *** CAUTION *** Ground MUST ABSOLUTELY BE GOOD AND WELL CONNECTED, the slightest cut causes the partial or total loss of the arduino inputs

adaptateur ATX 24 pins vers borniers, également compatible avec les alimentations de PC ATX 20 pins. Il suffit de brancher n'importe quelle alimentation de PC pour bénéficier du 5V / 12V /3.3V et même du -5V et du -12V avec les alimentations PC les plus anciennes qui fournissaient ce type de tension. Les tensions sont bien réparties grâce à un Circuit double faces et se récupèrent sur un ensemble de borniers 16A. Produit fabriqué par Retroelectronik et Made in France qui était gage de qualité, vendu à petit prix Produit reconditionné, d'occasion, des traces de rouille, switch On/Off changé, testé ok au multimètre (voir les photos) Description originale du site trouvé sur Wayback machine (la version Fr n'est hélas plus disponible): Description Power adapter ATX PC to terminal blocks 12V 5V -5V and 3.3V for LEDs, power supply of arcade terminals and/or all that could require a large and varied power supply PART 1: Product Description Whether you need 12V to power LEDs, 12V / 5V and -5V to power an arcade or 3.3V to test an electronic fixture, a PC power supply can offer you all that. Everyone has an old PC that no longer serves; and even if it's not the case, ATX power supplies has the best Value for money as their cost and quality have nothing to do with what you can buy in the power supply market. It's possible to find a 300 or 500 watts used ATX power supply for less than 10 euros. This is perfect especially if you need a lot of power at a reasonable cost. This ATX to terminal adapter turns any ATX PC power supply into a versatile power supply you can easily connect to using its multiple screw terminal blocks. Features: - Presence of an ON / OFF button - 6 X +5V connectors on terminal block 16A - 10 X GND connectors on terminal block - 1 X -5V connector on terminal block (Caution, the -5V is not present on all ATX power supplies, if your power supply does not provide it, this output will not deliver any voltage) - 1 X -12V connector on terminal block - 4 X +12V connectors on terminal block - 3 X 3.3V connectors on terminal block - 2 b'"'Power Conb'"' connectors to easily connect a remote ON / OFF button if this adapter is not intended to be accessible (in this case put the integrated button on b'"'OFFb'"', and connect your new (any self lock) button using two wires to the two Power Con terminals) The maximum usable power depends solely on your power supply (up to several hundred watts admissible and up to 16A/terminal) - 1 X 24 pin ATX connector also compatible with 20 pin connectors for absolute compatibility with all ATX power supplies and optimal distribution of the electrical load. PART 2: Examples and tutorials for use: Example of connection with an old 350 watt power supply purchased for less than 10 euros on: The power supply has a 20-pin connector, 4 pins remain unused. Thanks to the keying system of the ATX standard, you can only put the 20 pins connector at it right place, otherwise it just doesn't enter. The available current is written directly on the power supply, ie in this example the values ​​given on the label: WARNING, this is only an example, adapt this calculation according to the data listed on your own power supply. So remember this very simple formula derived from the law of ohm: P (power in Watts) = U (in Volts) X I (in Amperes) I now have: + 3.3V X 15A = 49.5 Watts at 3.3V + 5V X 25A = 125 Watts at 5V -5V X 0.6A = 3 Watts at -5V + 12V X 13A = 156 Watts at 12V -12V X 0.6A = 7.2 Watts at -12V And I have all these powers simultaneously, be careful not to exceed the power calculated, otherwise you could destroy your power supply (actually not really as ATX power supplies as far as I know all have an integrated surge protect En savoir plus

adaptateur ATX 24 pins vers borniers, également compatible avec les alimentations de PC ATX 20 pins. Il suffit de brancher n'importe quelle alimentation de PC pour bénéficier du 5V / 12V /3.3V et même du -5V et du -12V avec les alimentations PC les plus anciennes qui fournissaient ce type de tension. Les tensions sont bien réparties grâce à un Circuit double faces et se récupèrent sur un ensemble de borniers 16A. Produit fabriqué par Retroelectronik et Made in France qui était gage de qualité, vendu à petit prix Produit reconditionné, d'occasion, des traces de rouille, switch On/Off changé, testé ok au multimètre (voir les photos) Description originale du site trouvé sur Wayback machine (la version Fr n'est hélas plus disponible): Description Power adapter ATX PC to terminal blocks 12V 5V -5V and 3.3V for LEDs, power supply of arcade terminals and/or all that could require a large and varied power supply PART 1: Product Description Whether you need 12V to power LEDs, 12V / 5V and -5V to power an arcade or 3.3V to test an electronic fixture, a PC power supply can offer you all that. Everyone has an old PC that no longer serves; and even if it's not the case, ATX power supplies has the best Value for money as their cost and quality have nothing to do with what you can buy in the power supply market. It's possible to find a 300 or 500 watts used ATX power supply for less than 10 euros. This is perfect especially if you need a lot of power at a reasonable cost. This ATX to terminal adapter turns any ATX PC power supply into a versatile power supply you can easily connect to using its multiple screw terminal blocks. Features: - Presence of an ON / OFF button - 6 X +5V connectors on terminal block 16A - 10 X GND connectors on terminal block - 1 X -5V connector on terminal block (Caution, the -5V is not present on all ATX power supplies, if your power supply does not provide it, this output will not deliver any voltage) - 1 X -12V connector on terminal block - 4 X +12V connectors on terminal block - 3 X 3.3V connectors on terminal block - 2 b'"'Power Conb'"' connectors to easily connect a remote ON / OFF button if this adapter is not intended to be accessible (in this case put the integrated button on b'"'OFFb'"', and connect your new (any self lock) button using two wires to the two Power Con terminals) The maximum usable power depends solely on your power supply (up to several hundred watts admissible and up to 16A/terminal) - 1 X 24 pin ATX connector also compatible with 20 pin connectors for absolute compatibility with all ATX power supplies and optimal distribution of the electrical load. PART 2: Examples and tutorials for use: Example of connection with an old 350 watt power supply purchased for less than 10 euros on: The power supply has a 20-pin connector, 4 pins remain unused. Thanks to the keying system of the ATX standard, you can only put the 20 pins connector at it right place, otherwise it just doesn't enter. The available current is written directly on the power supply, ie in this example the values ​​given on the label: WARNING, this is only an example, adapt this calculation according to the data listed on your own power supply. So remember this very simple formula derived from the law of ohm: P (power in Watts) = U (in Volts) X I (in Amperes) I now have: + 3.3V X 15A = 49.5 Watts at 3.3V + 5V X 25A = 125 Watts at 5V -5V X 0.6A = 3 Watts at -5V + 12V X 13A = 156 Watts at 12V -12V X 0.6A = 7.2 Watts at -12V And I have all these powers simultaneously, be careful not to exceed the power calculated, otherwise you could destroy your power supply (actually not really as ATX power supplies as far as I know all have an integrated surge protection but it could happen). PART 3: Security Information: Attention, this adapter must not be in direct contact with a conductor (water, metal, etc...), to avoid any risk of short-circuit. It can be placed on an insulating surface or fixed using its 4 holes M3 (diameter 3mm) loc En savoir plus Collaboration commerciale.